Felix Trattoria
Sfincione: focaccia siciliana, rosemary, sea salt & olive oil
Located in the heart of Venice, CA, the drool-worthy pasta, impeccable midcentury design, and outstanding service at Felix will have you wearing out your welcome in this cozy Italian eatery. Come hungry. Get comfortable. You’re sure to leave with a full belly and a smile on your face.
The hype is real
If you have your heart set on eating at Felix Trattoria, be sure to call a few weeks, even months, in advance. For reals. The modest size of this restaurant is only part of what will seduce you. If you show up hoping to score one of the coveted nine bar stools or two tables that are reserved for walk-ins, you might have to camp out for a couple of hours before the place even opens. Ain’t nobody got time for that. Reservations required.
Craft cocktails, the perfect aperitif
There are choices for whatever libation you fancy. I started with a Barbarossa. The stiff gin, fennel, rhubarb, lime, & aperitivo provided the perfect kick I was hoping for. If you visit on a hot summer day, try the Plum Spritz. Sparkling wine, plums, gentian, and lemon are the stars of this drink that offers a very fine carbonation and dances around your palate.
Pre-pasta deliciousness
You can’t start an Italian meal without bread, and the Sfincione does not disappoint. This focaccia siciliana features rosemary, sea salt, and olive oil. The slight crispiness of the exterior gives way to the hot, fluffy interior that melts in your mouth. It’s light, with a heavenly brioche flavor that transforms into an explosion of olive oil and salt, but not in a greasy way. A+.
We ordered the crisp, fresh, Misticanza salad at the server’s suggestion. Served on Bibb lettuce, the acidic dressing and earthiness of the herbs complemented the rest of the meal and helped cut through the fat of the main courses.
Pasta lovers rejoice!
Pro tip: table 55 is where it’s at. You’ll get a crash course on pasta-making while dining. It’s situated right by the heart of this restaurant, where you’ll find the crown jewel: a glass, temperature-controlled room where every piece of pasta is handmade. They use traditional tools, and techniques that have been passed down in Italian families for centuries. No shortcuts are taken and it makes a world of difference.
Here’s the low-down on four of the most popular pastas:
Rigatoni All’Amatriciane: guanciale, pomodoro & pecorino romano DOP
You don’t have to be able to pronounce this dish to enjoy it. If you’re looking for a light pasta, this is probably not going to suit you. The owner’s favorite dish, this pasta is rich. Share it or plan to take home half of it – it makes for amazing leftovers.
Tagliatelle Bolognese: ragù Bolognese “vecchia scuola” & parmigiano Reggiano 24 mo.
If you’re looking for American Bolognese, this is going to surprise you. Another rich take on an Italian classic, this traditional Bologna Bolognese features meat that is finely chopped, not ground, which completely changes the dynamic of the dish. The chopped meat gives it an added layer of heartiness and richness, and we could only have a few bites before needing something to cut through the fattiness. At least we have more leftovers.
Orecchiette: sausage sugo, spigarello, peperoncino & canestrato
Best dish of the night. Hands-down. (Well, maybe behind the focaccia.) Perfectly balanced in terms of both flavor and texture, the orecchiette was the perfect pasta for scooping sauce into the “little ear.” The sausage hits your palate first, quickly followed by a bit of heat from the pepperoncino, which was slightly subdued by the brightness from the spigarello, which gave it a fantastic crunch. (Spigarello is Italian broccoli, for those who didn’t know). The sharpness of the canestrato, or sharp Romano cheese, is the perfect finish.
Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe: black pepper & pecorino fulvi
Last but not least, our final pasta boasted an excellent flavor that was a classic take on Cacio e Pepe. Heavy on the pepper but not at the level where it was overwhelming, I wish there was a little more ooey-gooeyness of the cheese. I’d still rank it in the Top 3 Cacio e Pepe that I’ve ever eaten.
Felix checks all three boxes: atmosphere, service, and food. Quite frankly, it can only be described as a religious experience.
After eating here, I developed a chef crush
I’ve worked with a lot of very talented chefs - from old world barkers in Paris to molecular gastronomists at Michelin rated restaurants. While dishes can inspire me, it take a lot for me to say “WOW - I would love to learn from you”. Chef Evan Funke makes me want to say this. And while I don’t work in restaurants anymore, if he offered me the opportunity to come work in the Pasta Room, I might have to take a leave of absence from my job and go do it. One of his best pasta makers did come from an Apple Store, so there is hope for me.
For now - I settled with learning from his cookbook. And with a collection of over 200, having a new release rise into my top 10 is pretty impressive. I definitely recommend it - but remember, the methods are traditional. Machines are not used. It is labor-some work, yet I find it so relaxing for a Sunday.
Now if you aren’t in love yet - go watch his show on Quibi called “Shape of Pasta”. Chef Evan Funke travels around Italy to learn how to make pasta shapes that are getting lost in history. Even though he is truly a master Chef, he is so humbled in his experiences and thirst for knowledge.
